Partager l'article ! About: Rémy Bergasse E-mail : remybergasse @ gmail.com Born : November 1st, 1986 Live : Marseille ...
E-mail : remybergasse @ gmail.com
Born : November 1st, 1986
Live : Marseille
Height : 177cm; Weight : 62kg
One handed pull-ups : 10.
Other sports : Scuba diving, submarine hunting, running, biking.
Hobbies : music, guitar, video editing, photo, maths...
Club : AS Grimper / Marseille
Favorite crags : Buoux, Roquevaire, Calanques, Verdon, Céüse
One hold : crimp of course!
And a job : Maths Teacher
As soon as I was born, I started climbing with my parents, in Fontainebleau, Ailefroide, and the Calanques. After ten years of occasional practice, it became a passion and since my fourteenth birthday, there hasn’t been more than two consecutive days without me climbing. At that time I used to live in Romans sur Isère, right next to a lot of crags such as the Vercors, Omblèze, Presles, and so on... places where I progressed quickly at the cost of an intense and regular training. With almost 140 days a year on rock, I soon did my first 8b's and two years after my first 7a I had already collected more than 100 routes in the 8th grade.
At that time, I was mostly climbing with my father. In 2002, I joined Mineral Spirit's club, with which I started competition. Thanks to a great dynamic (supported by François Peraldi and Jimmy Aunet), I was allowed to keep improving, visiting the most beautiful crags of the region with other people impassioned by rock, from the south of Drôme and Ardèche to Vaucluse, passing sometimes by Spain.
After this fruitful period where I alternated between traineeships and competitions with the junior French team and performances in crags, I had to put climbing on hold for a while (2005) to focus on my studies since I attended a maths/physics preparatory classe. Through this sacrifice, I got into Ecole Normale Supérieure of Lyon in 2006, to study computational science. After one year in Lyon and a Master semester in Paris I believed I needed "my dose", as the necessary compromise between high studies and my passion was killing me. Thus I decided to stop working at the E.N.S. and dedicate myself to full-time climbing.
During two years and a half in Paris, I focus my energy on a sometimes very hard training, interspersed by days in Fontainebleau with friends, where my main goal was to often change sectors, doing most of the times boulders of an accessible level, up to 8a, 8a+. Actually my training was focused on developing the skills needed in lead competitions and crag climbing. Training payed, and I was selected to participate to French Team Traineeships (where I did my first 8b's on sight), to some World Cups (some semi finals). But the fact that I had to live in Paris, far away from crags, was oppressing me more and more at that time, and psychological saturation grew.
In 2010, I came back to Marseille, and little by little I found back my old rhythm, with three days a week at crags! I was litteraly reborn thanks to the possibility to climb and train in a really positive atmosphere, with other top-level climbers. And the motivation cycle is now 200% efficient from heavy loads of training at the Grimper gym to outdoor performances. Since September 2010 I’ve felt a great progression and I think I can say I’ve never been in such a good shape as in these last months. Moreover, I think I’ve finally found a durable balance in my climbing approach, which used to be often too "extremist" in the past. The perfect alchemy between training rigour and the “feeling” that is born from passion, thing that is so hard to find yet so simple at the same time.
And like the heads of the Hydra of Lerna, each time a difficult route falls under assault, the taste of nostalgia that comes at the end of an episode gives quickly way to the excitement of new objectives, to the conquest of a new project... and now I have to leave you here because rocks are waiting for me!
Here is a list of notables sends (for full list, it is here on 8a.nu) :
- "Steppe de pierres", Oasis, Calanques (First Ascent) => vidéo
- "DTN", Roquevaire (First Ascent) => vidéo
- "Bumayé", Margalef
- "Narcose", Oasis, Calanques, (First Ascent)
- "XXL", Grotte de l'Ours, Calanques.
- "First step stop here", Oasis, Calanques. (First Ascent)
- "Il était une Voie", Buoux (4ème repetition)
- "Talisman", Génat (2nd go)
- "Amadeus", Sabart => vidéo
- "La Vraie Vie", Paroi des toits, Calanques (first repetition)
- "U.F.O." Grotte de l'Ours, Calanques
- "Le Minimum", Buoux
- "Dures Limites", Céüse
- "La colo de vacances", Omblèze (First Ascent, 8b+/8c?)
- "Smoke", Pierrot Beach, Presles
- "Métaphysique des Tubes", Seynes
- "Céréales Killer", Roquevaire
8b à vue :
- "Photo-shot", Margalef
- "Anorexia", Etxauri
- "Xabi Askatu", Etxauri
- "Sahara", Etxauri (8a+?)
- "Quoi de Neuf", Orsay (First Ascent) => vidéo
- "Quoi de Neuf Acte II", Orsay (first repetition, 8B/B+)
- "Surprise du chef" rallongé, Ailefroide
And a lot of boulders until 8a/8a+ in Fontainebleau mainly. For more details, look here on bleau.info
- Some semifinals in Lead World Cups, in Puurs (Belgium, photo at the right), 2009, Kranj (Slovenia), 2008 and 2009. Every result is here on the IFSC website.
After quota reductions for French teams, in 2010 I could not participate to international circuit. Without entering into details on this point, because competition has often been ungrateful for me, and results have rarely been at the level I expected, I still want to talk of a really nice boulder open competition:
- the final round of the "Grimper Power Challenge", one of my goals last year, and I finished 2nd at the 2010 edition. (vidéo)
Alpinism, multi-pitchs, a few solos :
Even if crag climbing is THE first thing for me, every aspect of the activity interests me too, depending on occasions. Beyond bouldering, competitions and indoor climbing with friends, I appreciate a lot mutli-pitchs routes, above the sea or in the verdon, or even in mountain's altitude. Some alpinism sessions sometimes (at the limit of non self-depending danger!), and even some solos until 6a/500m, which are more "vertical-ballads" to "feel alive", on the Calanques limestone or Ailefroide granite. Nothing ambitious here and generally it is mostly a happy change once in a while. But, there are more and more hard multi-pitchs routes... and I have some interesting notions for the coming summer!
Videos watched almost 100 000 times :
Video editing is a hobby that interests me more and more. For some years I’ve regularly put online some footages, often associated with most beautiful routes and boulders I’ve had the chance to climb. By this day, between the two platforms of Dailymotion and Vimeo, the videos I’ve put online have already been viewed about a 100 000 times. See here the video page.